Retardant Wall

 

(last updated June 25, 2017)

Red (Retardant) Walls (p. 250)

Approach: As for Routopia.  When you reach the cairn marking where the  trail to Routopia splits off  L from the Sauerkraut bike trail , continue on the bike trail for another 5 or 6 minutes to a faint trail on the L that leads to the base of the southeast face of Red Walls (about 25-30 minutes from parking).

Southwest Face

A steep slabby face covered in fire retardant dropped during the big (Garnet) fire of 1994.  The SW face is visible from the upper parking lot.

The best access to the climbs is from the right side (S corner) of the Southwest face. Crawl along the slot  at the base of the face (The Crawl Space) to reach a broad terrace under the climbs. All the climbs have severely undercut starts and require a very high step and/or the use of a cheater stone to gain the rock face. Cleaning and removal of loose rock (and some holds) in 2014 necessitated re-bolting, some re-routing and consequently regrading of the original 2 routes on this face.

Southwest Face

Retardent Wall Crag
"Retardent
  1.  Sport Mountaineering** 10b 12 bolts (brown hangers). Jon Jones 06/14.
  2.  Red Eye 11b 13 bolts. Straight up from bolt 5 of Sport Mountaineering following grey hangers . Would be worth some stars with more cleaning. Jay McConaughy 1996. Re-bolted 2014.
  3. Sunset Strip* 11c 12 bolts. Straight up from bolt 1 of Sport Mountaineering following black hangers . Jay McConaughy 1996. Re-bolted 2014.
  4. Red Skin** 11a 10 bolts (red hangers). Crux short and well protected. Jon Jones 06/14.
  5. Red Menace** 11d/12a 9 bolts. Rolf Rybak 06/17.
  6. Red Herring* 10c 7 bolts. Jon Jones 06/17

Southeast Face, L to R:

  • Lake View Arête** 5.8 7 bolts. Cracks to arête on extreme left edge of SE Face. Jon Jones 06/17.
  • Phone a Friend* 5.9 7 bolts. Face 3 m R of Lake View Arête. Jon Jones 06/17.
  • Unnamed 10d 7 bolts. R face of the large corner 25 m R of L edge of SE face. Terry Schmidt 2011.
  • Scirocco** 5.9 8 bolts. Starts on arête just R of previous route, which it joins just below a shared anchor. Take a long sling for the 5th clip. Jon Jones 05/17.
  • Scavenger*** 10a/b 8 bolts 20m.15m R of Scirocco.  Enticing corner to headwall finish and crux. Jon Jones 10/16.
  • Old Bones* 5.9 8 bolts. Climbs L edge of The Happy Face. Jon Jones 05/17.
  • Happy Face** 10c 7 bolts. Nick Lussier 09/95. Re-cleaned and re-bolted 2014.