These newly developed buttresses are at the north end of The Bluffs, just minutes from Evergreen (Foreplay) parking and face east, so receive morning sun and afternoon shade. The rock is quite friable and the routes are still a bit “fresh”, so wear a helmet. The rock can be a little slow to dry after rain early and late in the year when the sun is low in the sky.
Please be considerate when parking on Evergreen and don’t block driveways, change into your shorts in public, or use neighbourhood lawns as picnic or bike repair sites (yes, this all happened on the Easter weekend.)
At the moment you can still use the trail under the power line so to access the Canoe Trail from the cul-de-sac at the end of Evergreen, go through the first yellow gate to the second yellow gate, which is almost immediately on your right. Pass through this and follow the trail under the power line for 20 metres then turn left (east) onto a well worn trail that leads down to the valley floor at the south end of a small pond. Walk south for a few minutes until you come to the remains of a white canoe, which was launched from the top of the cliff many moons ago. Canoe Buttress (Right) is directly above this.
Be careful if you are allergic to Poison Ivy; sections of The Canoe Trail sport a healthy crop of it.
Poison Ivy on The Canoe Trail
A. Portage*** 10c 13 bolts 25m. Sustained climbing. Stellar! Rolf Rybak 2019/03.
B. Voyageur** 5.9, 12 bolts 25m. Jon Jones 2019/01.
C. Hitting Rock Bottom* 5.8+, 12 bolts 23m. Jon Jones 2019/01
A. Run Aground** 10c 11 bolts 20m. Jon Jones 2019/03.
B. Shooting the Rapids*** 10b 11 bolts 20m. Jon Jones 2019/03.
C. Different Strokes* 10a 10 bolts 18m. A burly start leads to easier climbing above. Jon Jones 2019/03.
D. Dry Run** 10+ 10 bolts 20m. Jon Jones 2019/05.
E. Project 7 bolts 15m.
F. Rock the Boat** 11b 9 bolts 18m. Rolf Rybak 2019/05.
Twenty metres south (left) of Canoe Buttress is a prominent slab, just to the right of a dirty, loose, right-facing corner.
The Elephant in the Room 5.7 11 bolts 20m. Jon Jones 2019/04. Ascends the slab a few metres right of the corner. You may encounter dirt on this climb as there is a work in progress just to its right.
Slalom Rock is a couple of minutes south of Canoe Buttress along the Canoe Trail and is easily identified by the prominent off-set roof that cuts across the top of the face. To access the cliff, walk past it for a few metres and look for a cairned trail on the right that diagonals up left through trees and boulders and then cuts back right to the base of the crag.
Slalom* 11a 8 bolts 15m. Weave your way to the overhang, which is turned on its left. Rolf Rybak 2019/04.